Delectable kebabs, aromatic biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has long been a dream destination for epicures, with residents and visitors alike celebrating its exquisite cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization designated it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – including it in a prestigious roster of international urban centers and sparking hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it joins a global network of more than four hundred urban centers across over 100 countries committed to promoting "creativity as a driver of development that sustains urban life".
The recognition "demonstrates its profound food heritage and vibrant culinary scene," according to a representative from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this coveted list of 70 cities internationally.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The accolade for this venerable city arrives as hardly a shock to its locals or avid food lovers. Many echo the view that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, chaotic, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is at last in the global gaze for what has perennially shaped its essence: an immense devotion for food.
"'The day's menu, how will it be cooked' is a continued conversation from waking up until going to bed in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are truly evaluated by the quality of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The Nawabi City – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers – is famed for its succulent kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were created, evolved, and raised to exquisite levels in their opulent kitchens.
These royal kitchens were centers of food experimentation, blending Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were fashioned. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was invented to cater to an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists processed the meat with papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly sealed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Besides the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only highlights fresh harvests but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Almost on every corner, there are small establishments and carts – hidden delights that are extremely popular with the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, large gatherings start gathering from early morning at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, offered in earthenware cups, along with incredibly soft buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can head to a no-frills joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also offers special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert available in the winter. The technique of making it is scientific and demanding. The vendor beats the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique airy feel.
On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however express concern that their younger generation do not want to learn the skill.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy puts it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – crafted by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is believed, will encourage more people around the world to learn these narratives and travel to the city to taste the culinary delights of Lucknow.
